Glossary

Word / Phrase Meaning
exquisitely extremely, beautifully
mania obsession, craze
courtier an attendant at a royal court
inimitable impossible to copy
quaint attractively unusual or old-fashioned
oriental of the East, especially East Asia
infectious spreading to others
hierarchy a system of ranks
condescendingly in a superior manner, as if stooping to someone below
deferentially with humble respect
all and sundry everyone
genetic hereditary, inherited
serenity peacefulness, calmness
savages fierce, uncivilised people
lout a rude, clumsy man
contemplation / ambulatory deep thought / relating to walking
crippling severely damaging
by leaps and bounds very quickly, in large amounts
fair game someone who may rightly be attacked or criticised
heinous hateful, wicked
amicably in a friendly way
auspicious favourable, promising success
naive innocent, simple
Tokaido, Osaka, Tokyo, Nara places in Japan
Copacabana, Avenida Presidente Vargas places in Brazil

Detailed Explanation, Part 1: Courtesy and Bowing in Japan

Courtesy has a double function. Because Japan is so crowded, there is no privacy. People create privacy through good manners: they simply do not listen to what is not their business. The open telephones prove it - a person can quarrel with a lover in public "in perfect privacy". Mikes twists the English saying "a man's home is his castle" into "a man's telephone-receiver is his castle".

Why bowing is complicated.

Rule Example
Who bows to whom wife to husband; child to father; younger brother to elder; sister to all brothers
How deeply depends on rank, standing, age, social position
For how long neither may straighten up before the other - the tiniest difference in rank shows in a split-second difference

Mikes compares this with an old American traffic law: if two cars met at a crossing, neither could move until the other had gone - a comic picture of deadlock.

Why it looks quaint to a foreigner. For the Japanese it is natural; for Mikes it is puzzling because he bows too deeply or not deeply enough, to the wrong man at the wrong time, with or without clasped hands - "which is bad … or you do which is worse".

Humour through exaggeration. Babies bow "condescendingly, from his majestic height"; the conductors' bow is "slightly theatrical"; even a deer bows - and then snatches the food, just like the gentlemen at the bus-stop who bow serenely and then turn into savages when the bus comes. Mikes shows that politeness has limits.

The soup trap. Whatever the foreigner does is wrong - silence is rude by Japanese standards, noise is rude by European standards. The joke is on the confused outsider.

Detailed Explanation, Part 2: Traffic in Brazil

The contrast. Brazilians are leisurely - "nobody hurries" - and love beauty: they decorate even their pavements with mosaics. But at the wheel they become speed-mad, as if a tenth of a second mattered greatly.

The paradox of expensive cars. Cars are very costly because of import duties, and everyone complains they cannot afford one - yet cars multiply "by leaps and bounds". This is typical Mikes irony.

Hunter and prey.

Mikes's words What he means (with a smile)
drivers "do care" about pedestrians they watch for them - as targets
the pedestrian is "fair game" the driver takes aim and accelerates
"hunter and prey … smile amicably" nobody gets angry; it is a game
"I win today - you will win tomorrow" the pedestrian may be a driver tomorrow

Murderous but good-tempered. Drivers cut in, overtake on both sides and commit "the most heinous crimes of the road", yet always smile - no anger, no hostility, no hooting. The oxymoron "murderous but good-tempered" sums up Brazilian traffic.

The punch-line. On the Avenida Presidente Vargas, "crawling traffic" moves at "terrifying speed" (another paradox). The friend's reply, "I was born on this side!", exaggerates the idea that it is impossible to cross the road.

Mikes's attitude. He is not hostile; his humour is affectionate. He exaggerates what looks strange to an outsider, and laughs at himself as much as at the people he visits. Still, the textbook's note reminds us that travel writing can show one culture through the eyes of another and subtly treat the writer's own ways as normal.

Vocabulary (textbook exercises)

Synonyms

Word Synonym Word Synonym
intimate personal, private auspicious favourable
quaint unusual, old-fashioned hostility enmity
majestic grand, dignified expensive costly
deferential respectful savages barbarians, brutes
solemn serious, formal accelerate speed up
amicably in a friendly way import bring in from abroad
mystify puzzle, bewilder complicated complex
murderous deadly

Word forms

Word Related form Word Related form
solemn solemnity ambulatory ambulate
infection infectious naive naivete
ceremoniously ceremony fascinate fascination
appreciation appreciate adhere adherence
amicable amicably dynamic dynamism
hostile hostility deprive deprivation
accelerate acceleration eminent / generous eminence / generosity

Expressions from the travelogue

Expression Meaning
all and sundry everyone
cut in move suddenly in front of another vehicle
by leaps and bounds very quickly; in large amounts
listen in listen to a conversation you are not supposed to hear
fair game someone or something that may be attacked or criticised
get into (the habit) develop a particular habit
look out (for) keep trying to find or meet somebody
for dear life as hard or as fast as possible
be one's castle a place where one can be private and safe
clear cut definite, easy to see or identify
easy going relaxed and happy to accept things